Review: In the hot seat at The Incinerator, a Willoughby landmark

I am quite partial to a good gin and tonic or even, depending on circumstances, a not so good one. So when I am offered a G&T soon after sitting down at The Incinerator, the answer is yes. There is, however, some mention of sorbet, which is slightly worrying, as part of the drink's magic is its simplicity.

But when it arrives, made with Tanqueray, the frozen cucumber and lime scoop floating on top is the star. Subtly-flavoured, cool and creamy, it involves some kind of voodoo, because it doesn't melt and goop up the gin. Miraculous.

The 1930s building we are sitting in was originally, as per the name, an incinerator, but not your garden variety. It was officially designed by Walter Burley Griffin and Eric Nicholls, but Marion Mahony Griffin, Walter's wife, would probably have been involved too. The architectural couple from the US spent more than 20 years in Australia designing many things together, most famously Canberra.

With its asymmetrical peaked roof, sandstone walls and artful detail, the Griffins' gift to Willoughby is a local landmark. Since being taken off incineration duties in 1967, it has been a restaurant, offices then, for a long time, a sad, derelict shell. Happily, the council had it restored and it reopened two years ago as an art gallery and a cafe. It is now so beloved by locals that finding a seat for breakfast and lunch can be a tricky business.

As of December, the cafe started opening on Friday and Saturday evenings as a restaurant, and the good news is you can book.

So here we are for a birthday surprise. The menu, we are advised, is designed to share – two entrees and three mains between the four of us should do. I'm all for the sharing craze. When done well, it removes the stress of choosing the wrong dish and coveting your neighbour's, and you get to try things you wouldn't normally order.

Our entrees are perfectly balanced: a big bowl of tenderly fried calamari, zucchini sticks and crispy fried mint, and an oxheart tomato salad with basil, balsamic and torn chunks of incredibly creamy buffalo mozzarella, from Marrickville's Vannella Cheese.

A Howard Park chardonnay from the succinct wine list (with everything available by the glass) is flinty and fresh, well-suited to our surroundings.

During the day, the outdoor seating is in demand, but at night, inside is best, to admire such details as the softly glowing globe lights hanging in a row, and the chevron-patterned iron and glass double doors.

I tend to avoid pork belly, but here it's not the usual rich, fatty slab, rather rolled into a roast, with pancetta and sage stuffing that tastes as good as the meat, served on sweet and sour silverbeet with a perfect curve of crackling.

Four-cheese lasagna – blue cheese, mozarella, pecorino and parmesan – sounds terrifying but is wonderfully light, cut with a thin green layer of spinach. Wood-roasted fish of the day, Spanish mackerel, is deftly cooked rare in the middle on a feisty, spicy eggplant salad. Even the peas, with garlic, eschallots, mint and ricotta, are memorable.

Overseeing the room is owner Jonathan Slingo, known to locals as Jono, a benign giant in a checked shirt. He worked with The Grounds of Alexandria before opening here, and his attention to detail is evident, from the quality ingredients to the sculptural flower arrangement.

We can't ignore dessert, in fact we order all three. A slice of dark, velvety chocolate tart and an elegant glass of feathery orange granita is another perfect pairing. Together, it's like eating a mega-sophisticated Jaffa.

The birthday boy, who doesn't like sharing dessert, orders ice-cream with sprinkles and chocolate sauce. His arrives with a candle in it and, at $5, is clearly meant to be part of the kids menu, but it comes with its own pouring jug of warm chocolate sauce, which we all have to try. So much for not sharing.

Taking our leave, we offer a prayer of thanks that this fine building has survived and thrived. Walter and Marion would surely have been thrilled to dine here.

THE INCINERATOR

2 Small Street, Willoughby

8188 2220

Daily, 7am-4pm; Fri-Sat, dinner from 5pm

theincinerator.com.au

THE COFFEE

Grounds Roasters

THE PICKS

Anything, really

THE LOOK

Casually sophisticated

THE SERVICE

Warm and helpful, children welcome

THE VALUE

Good. Entrees $22-$27; mains $24-$35