121BC

It's a small-scale wonder, tiny in size but big on ideas, flavour and magic. They take wine seriously here, too, naming themselves after one of the greatest vintages recorded. Sommelier Giorgio De Maria's inviting, one-of-a-kind approach sends you on a flight path across Italy via boutique regional drops. You can also BYO from the attached bottle shop, which has 300-plus choices. Service is sweet and the food - by Andrew Cibej, of neighbouring Vini - is exceptional, maximising flavour from simple ingredients. Try gold-crisp cauliflower with goat's cheese; gorgeous ribs; braised cabbage with fried lentils and sausage; airy limoncello and ricotta custard. The reputation of dark alleys is rehabilitated by this laneway gem.