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1889 Enoteca

1889 Enoteca Article Lead - narrow
1889 Enoteca Article Lead - narrowSupplied

15/20

Italian$$$

In a historic building with an artful patina of age, it's hard to believe Enoteca is just a few years old. Scarlet brocade banquettes, black marble tables and a space dedicated to a wine store give an ambience more European than East Brisbane. Food embraces both contemporary and traditional Italian with a choice of a la carte or 'Roman Cucina' set menu. Zucchini flowers appear on both, the delicate blooms stuffed with anchovy, buffalo mozzarella and tomato. Sweet local red claw served in the half-shell lie on a bed of perfectly wilted bitter radicchio with a punchy caper salsa. A fixture on the menu is the soft pillows of gnocchi, bathed in creamy truffled sauce with crisp nuggets of pork and fennel sausage. Desserts such as the rich, moist chocolate semolina slice with stracciatella gelato are best shared. Service can be a mixed bag; from professional to barely there but consolation can always be found in Enoteca's legendary wine list.

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