1889 Enoteca

This refurbished rubber factory is seriously swanky with prices to match - but, going by the full tables, diners don't seem to mind. Glass doors open to velvet-and-leather banquettes or seats in the wine 'library' that doubles as a store. Staff knowledge of an extensive wine list is impressive but at times it felt like they were trying to up-sell rather than just recommend the most appropriate wine. House-made pasta is the hero of a short, considered, menu. You'll be batting away forks from the signature dish: airy gnocchi with caramelised nuggets of sausage and a silky mushroom sauce. By comparison an entree of clams was disappointing; both gritty and rubbery, while zucchini flowers were let down by soggy batter. Spatchcock with grapes, smoky eggplant and chickpeas are skilfully cooked but lacked wow factor. House-churned truffle ice-cream is an inventive foil to a rustic chocolate tart, leaving your tastebuds feeling as swanky as your surroundings.