22 Grams

A wise person once said, "Give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't." On a rainy Saturday morning, Randwick’s 22 Grams looks like a welcoming pit stop for proactive locals.  

Named after the weight of a triple espresso shot, the focus on coffee is clear from the moment you walk in. To the left of the entrance is a shiny craft roasting machine, to the right, bags of single origin beans piled high next to the seats. Even the banquettes by the windows are upholstered with recycled burlap coffee bean sacks.  

Despite occupying a relatively compact space, owners Hazel Gordon and Douglas Delaney decided to start experimenting with in-house roasting about six months ago. It helps to have former Toby's Estate head barista Simon Factor on staff. Under his direction, beans are sourced from Melbourne Coffee Merchants and roasted twice a week. The house blend changes every three to four months, depending on what’s in season.

We get a mellow Brazilian and Bolivian blend. My brunch companions’ eyes light up as their cappuccino and latte arrive with perfect rosettas in the crema, a signature Toby's Estate latte art that’s tricky to get right. Upon tasting the coffee, however, both feel the light roast is overpowered by the milk. It’s a shame, as hints of caramel suggest a lovely cup in there. My short black – though less photogenic – proves a better alternative. The Rwanda single origin roast has a floral top note and a well-balanced, almost fruity finish.

Food-wise, 22 Grams has a short, seasonal menu with an artisanal focus. Most things are house-made where possible (from pesto to syrups, granola and almond milk) and prepared simply to highlight the freshness of the produce. The kitchen uses sourdough from the Bread and Butter Project and – unlike most cafes – employs a full-time pastry chef to prepare piping hot baked goods to pair with the coffee.

Depending on what day it is, the pastry cabinet could be stocked with anything from spicy apple, orange and dark chocolate muffins, brown sugar crusted cinnamon buns to a wonderfully spongy chocolate angel cake.  

The granola with ruby grapefruit, yoghurt and berries is a marvellous mix of honeyed oat bran, shredded coconut, sunflower seeds and macadamias, all caramelised to perfection with a touch of spice and brown sugar. The dollop of yoghurt adds creaminess and instead of a small jar of milk, the granola is served with a side of orange juice. While the added citrus brightens up the nutty mix, it is a touch too sour for my taste.

The corn fritters with smashed avocado and tomato coriander salsa is another standout. Three generously-sized fluffy fritters are nicely browned on the outside and packed with sweet corn kernels. My companion’s only gripe is the addition of kaffir lime leaves to the "avo smash", which packs an unexpected punch to the taste buds.     

As we work on our breakfasts, I marvel at the human Tetris played out in the busier corner of the cafe. Prams are skilfully wedged between tables while the slightly flummoxed floor staff do their best to attend to a buzzing crowd. There are rough edges to this promising local haunt, but nothing a good strong cup of coffee won’t fix.

THE LOW-DOWN
THE PICKS House-made granola, corn fritters
THE COFFEE 22 Grams house-blend
THE LOOK Warehouse-inspired
THE SERVICE Mostly helpful, but can be patchy during rush hour