3 Weeds

It might be a pub, but 3 Weeds has always had loftier ambitions. Leave the hustle and bustle of the main bar and you'll find yourself in an elegant, soundproofed room with soft carpet, white tablecloths and muted jazz. Previously the food has taken a 'dabs and daubs' approach, but under the talented Lauren Murdoch (ex-Felix), it's simpler, more honest but equally impressive. An intense, garlicky artichoke soup dotted with prawns is a soothing start, while kingfish carpaccio is dressed for the season with parsley, onion, capers and olives. A simple, fist-sized lamb pie is served on a pile of mushrooms and in a puddle of tarragon jus; and flame-tail snapper with witlof, sliced tomato and salsa verde is a crowd-pleasing special. So too, a white chocolate, rosemary and apricot parfait with scattered honeycomb and slivers of white chocolate. Service is personable without being intrusive and sommelier Stuart Sanders has a particularly deft touch. bright, enthusiastic and self-deprecating, making wine matching a joy.