465 The Avenue

Roll up, roll up, the circus has come to Chatswood. In a rather unglamorous but very convenient spot across from the train station, up has popped one of the most impressive bars the once barren north has seen.

It's not a tiny wine bar or an intimate hole in the wall, but a big, bombastic restaurant evoking 1920s Berlin - part spiegeltent, part band rotunda, part secret burlesque club.

Andrew Utiger and Richard Gardner have taken an ambitious step with 465 The Avenue. Your eyes will water thinking about how much it cost to put it all together.

It's shaped like a band rotunda and decorated lavishly with a tangle of brass instruments and a massive Phantom of the Opera-style chandelier dangling perilously over the bar.

Everything is dripping in red velvet and, if you've got sharp eyes, you'll spot little op-shop finds in every nook, like vintage novels, hand-painted murals and quirky records.

When it's empty, it can feel awkwardly grand, but that doesn't seem to be a problem. North Shore folk have taken to the leather booths and al-fresco tables like cabaret singers to sequins.

The menu has a classy, French bent, with florally cocktails, plenty of champagne and modest bistro food - think Ananas (in The Rocks) on training wheels.

Thankfully, it's very good, because fancy set design can look a bit silly when the show is rubbish.

The recommended opener is the Belle Epoque Bellini (white-peach puree, orgeat syrup, prosecco, $13), but I found it too sugary compared with the elegant French Butterfly (butterscotch and vanilla vodka, lemon, palm sugar, ginger beer, $17) and Spiced Almond Sidecar (Hennessy VS Cognac, lemon, triple sec, $18), both shaken well and served in beautiful coupes.

Champagne is well represented and starts at $110 for a bottle of Piper Heidsick Brut NV from Reims, or $36 for Chalk Hill NV Multi Regional sparkling wine from South Australia, and the wine list is big on local whites and international reds.

The biodynamic 2012 Krinklewood verdehlo from the Hunter Valley ($10.50) and 2011 Arido malbec ($9.50) from Mendoza got the thumbs up, although the pour was a little stingy. C'mon waitress, fill 'er up!

The surprise element is the extensive list of Australian craft beers, which seems like an odd addition in a fancy French bar, but Cricketers Arms Lager on tap will please those who aren't up for something girly.

Don't leave without trying the gnocchi with short rib ($30). It's the best dish from a succinct collection of neighbourhood bistro-style dishes like housemade terrine, pork belly and scotch fillet, which are all lovely but not a patch on those soft, puffy pillows soaked in tender meat that melt in your mouth.

The service is a little nervy at this early stage, but the curtain is only just rising. Chatswood has been crying out for something classy and quality like this, so on with the show.

You'll love it if … you're longing for a decent bar north of the bridge.

You'll hate it if … you're looking for something quiet and intimate.

Go for … Spiced Almond Sidecar, champagne, gnocchi with short rib.