4Fourteen

Colin Fassnidge is a man with more on his plate than is loaded onto one of the 4Fourteen specialties - a Sunday roast with all the trimmings. He darts between TV shoots and his other restaurant, the Four in Hand, but this rowdy, beguiling hotspot still manages to hum along beautifully. There is an instant sense of welcome in the interior, with its jovial central bar, stools around the open kitchen, low-slung industrial lights and patchwork strips of art. The menu is a rollcall of food trends. There’s smoking in house-smoked mackerel rillettes; pickling in a char-grilled lamb’s tongue with sweet pickled cucumber; and old-fashioned comfort food such as roast pork with golden glazed parsnips and prunes, or fall-apart lamb shoulder with a standout colcannon and rich tomato ragu. A regal-looking cheese platter is as compelling as dessert. But then, there’s that white chocolate sandwich with dulce de leche. Neither should be resisted.

And … Shared suckling pig roast on a Sunday.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Post-industrial comfort.
Best bit Warmth and congeniality in service and food. 
Worst bit Decibel levels.