5 Lire

Italians and Australia ... our sun and their sunny dispositions, our produce and their kitchen culture. Call me an old Italophile, but I say it’s a match made in heaven. Take Laura Notarfrancesco, whose father comes from Paterno in Basilicata. Laura did her time as an Aus-Italian counter girl and barista at Brunetti, and got herself qualified in marketing before launching her own eatery, North Melbourne’s 5 (‘‘cinque’’) Lire, late last year.

Like Laura, 5 Lire blends Italian and Australian very nicely: a Crodino soft drink sets the Italian mood, as does the huge  photo of a Vespa that hides the bathroom door. A black-and-chrome La Marzocco espresso machine oozes style, and could be a declaration of old-school Italian, as opposed to third-wave coffee intent. But the bare timber, the concrete walls and the colourful stools all say ‘‘contemporary Melbourne cafe’’, while the low, chunky, communal tables also tell us we’re not in Italy any more.

The menu of all-day breakfast, savoury bites and bigger share plates adds some Italian influences to a cafe brunch list, with the odd recipe from the family scrapbook and tastes influenced by a recent trip Laura made to Basilicata. So there might be ricotta hotcakes  and avocado smash (pepped up with charred lemon), while a super grain salad based on quinoa and freekeh is a strictly mod-cafe affair. Lasagne, a generous, meaty square served in the pan, blends ricotta, egg and fresh peas rather than bechamel with the meaty ragu, a lighter southern take on this northern classic. Arancini – made by Laura’s mum – might be filled with sweet potato, mushroom and melting mozzarella, and is perhaps not quite as crunchy on the outside as the best you’d find in Italy, which require lots of oil, patience and practice to get just right. They come with a salad of lentils, red onion, ricotta, fried eggplant and roasted red pepper.Sourdough toast is spread with ’nduja,  the spicy, soft pork sausage,  and topped with buffalo mozzarella and a smash of peas  laced with marsala for extra sweetness.

It’s cool and vegetal, creamy, meaty, sweet and spicy, with a lingering Calabrian burn. Blackboard specials might include Dr Marty’s crumpets with grilled peaches and whipped ricotta or baked figs stuffed with goat’s cheese, served with a mixed herb salad. An almond nougat semifreddo affogato arrives in a glass with the espresso shot on the side so you can affogare or not as you please. The semifreddo is creamy and nutty, with a nice dense texture. The shot adds that magic coffee hit. Actually, the coffee sums this place up: it has a lovely sweet nuttiness with a clean edge of bright, sweet fruit, a nice, full mouthfeel and a gently toasty finish that doesn’t veer into ashy.

Laura says she was looking for a robust roast with ‘‘an Italian background’’, something a little darker than some of the specialty coffee around the neighbourhood. Roasted by Locale, a Melbourne-based Lavazza project, like the cafe itself it blends something good from both worlds to make something even better.

Do ... leave room for affogato or chocolate pudding
Don't ... miss the specials board
Dish ... smashed peas, buffalo mozzarella and ’nduja
Vibe ... Cool Aus-Italian