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A La Grecque

Grilled Veal Fillet Melitzanosalata Soused RedOnion & Pancetta
Grilled Veal Fillet Melitzanosalata Soused RedOnion & PancettaRebecca Hosking

Good Food hat15.5/20

Greek$$$

Even on the coolest of days there's a sense of perpetual summer at this casual, contemporary homestead fronting the Great Ocean Road. It comes from the wide wooden decks, colourful crockery and chairs, smiling staff – and most of all, the sunny Greek-inspired flavours on the plate. A daily-changing menu always offers an inviting selection of mezze: start, perhaps, with glossy house-made taramasalata spooned on toasted olive bread, or char-grilled octopus sprinkled with fresh oregano leaves, before moving on to the day's fish. Grilled flathead might come with parsley-garlic sauce; juicy pink lamb rump sits on sweet-sour eggplant and onion. Dessert could be a thyme-spiked goat's cheese tart, or muscat-poached pears given crunch with a little nut crumble, and sensational sherry vinegar ice-cream. It's deceptively simple cooking that demands great produce and an assured palate; with ebullient patriarch Kosta still keeping a keen eye on the floor, the kitchen delivers on all counts. 

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