A Tavola

Part of Sydney's love affair with all things Italian, this ridiculously popular Darlinghurst diner is a faithful old flame. Owner Eugenio Maiale has tapped into our penchant for pasta, rolling out slippery, slender-made sheets of the stuff, judiciously tossed with great ingredients. A few well-chosen alternatives (lively salads, well-balanced main courses) seal the deal. Sticky-sauced fegatini (chicken livers) tingle with chicory bite. Buttery mezzalune (half-moons) of pea- and-ricotta filled pasta take on the crisp pungency of fried sage leaves. Fine Riverina lamb sits beautifully with salsa verde, Roman beans and fennel, and a red cabbage salad combines salty-creamy gorgonzola chunks, an earthy walnut crunch, chewy raisins and sour-sweet balsamic. Only somewhat robotic service can detract from the excitement. And while there's a jumping backyard seating area, and the refined charm of upstairs, the tavola (table) is where it's all happening. So try for a spot at the marble-topped share table in the front room to get the full A Tavola treatment.