13/20
Mexican$$
Venture deep into the subterranean space beneath the Prince Hotel and you'll find rooms kitted out with day-of-the-dead murals, exposed brick pillars and barrels of booze, a canopy of tiny lights in jars overhead. The mix-and-match menu is broken into sections such as bocaditas (snacks), masa delicacies (tacos, tamales and quesadilla), mains and desserts. You might open with molasses-sweet pumpkin guacamole and vegetable chips, and blackened baby corn with a subtle coffee cream. Next, wild mushroom quesadillas that are both earthy and sweet, thanks to corn truffle and pickled radish, while lamb short-rib empanadas come with a complex black mole (sauce) made from figs. Larger mains might include a steak and chorizo mixed grill and barbecued chilli chicken. But save room for salted caramel ice-cream, served on a hot, spiralled churro. It's unmissable. This cantina's fun and often rowdy, with service that's swift and sweet.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign up