Afghan Tasty Food

Central Dandenong is undergoing radical beautification to the tune of $290 million. Like all extreme makeovers, the process can be painful, with lots of bandages, fear of scarring and a fierce hope that it will all be worth it.

At Afghan Tasty — shrouded behind a makeshift fence with a giant ditch in front of it — there's a picture propped on the counter of Dandenong's proposed boulevard, a vision of green lawn, seats for summery lunches and established trees. No doubt the revitalisation of this increasingly impressive ethnic food hub will be worth it. Meanwhile, park around the corner but don't wait for the grass to grow before you visit Afghan Tasty.

The family-run restaurant is owned by Muheen Bahrami, who fled Kabul for Pakistan in 1989 before moving to Australia in 1991. He ran Dandenong's 7-Eleven for a while, opened a bakery down the road in Thomas Street, then followed up with Afghan Tasty three years ago.

It's been going great guns since, supplying supermarkets with Afghan breads (plain and garlic), and now another Afghan Tasty Bar & Restaurant is to open in the city at the end of next month.

Dandenong's Afghan Tasty is a fairly no-frills space, kept from being too stark by sunny service and fresh tulips brightening each table. Sombre pictures depict scenes from Afghan life and, once the lunch and early dinner rush dies down, fluorescent strip lighting and the hum of the drinks fridge double as ambience. It doesn't really matter though, because what you score here is a bang-on Afghan feast that's absurdly good value.

First, there are the manto, traditional wonton-style dumplings — about 12 loosely pleated pouches filled with minced lamb, onion, garlic chives and coriander. Yellow split peas are sprinkled on top, along with a liberal slosh of oil and yoghurt-mint sauce.

Next to land is a platter of meaty kebabs sprinkled with chilli and cooked over the open charcoal grill. The skewers are fanned as they cook, imparting a depth of smokiness to the meat, which is marinated overnight with onion, garlic and coriander. The chicken is juicy with an even, golden colour; the lamb backstrap well done (some may prefer the pieces pinker); and the shami — football-shaped minced beef — has a pleasing chilli tang.

As for starchy accompaniments, there are four types of pilau, including the two-tone kabuli, made from long-grain jasmine rice with carrot and sultanas.

Order the burani bonjon for eggplant cooked so it has body but is still soft and luscious, drizzled with the same yoghurt-mint sauce.

An undressed salad of iceberg, cucumber and tomato, plenty of warm bread and a couple of chutneys are the perfect sides.

And come summer, you might even be able to eat it on the lawn.

Also try ...

Afghan Pamir Restaurant (150-152 Thomas Street, Dandenong, 9792 0197.) Pamir moved to bigger premises last year and it, too, serves up fine Afghan fare.

African Village Kitchen (43 Walker Street, Dandenong, 0403 275 800.)

A new pan-African restaurant serving home-style dishes.

Epicure