AJ's Indian Restaurant

Everything about this suburban gem transcends its bland strip-mall setting. The menu traverses the subcontinent, mixing old faves with dishes that may be unfamiliar, even to Indian aficionados. Courteous staff are keen to answer queries or advise on matching flavours. Try tender chickpea-battered marinated prawns, or malai kofta with chunks of veg rather than a homogenous paste. Anardana gosht teams beef with pomegranate seeds and a good hit of chilli, and kheema naan, stuffed with lamb, is a spicy riff on the traditional flatbread. Prices are modest; there's even a vego banquet for under $30.