15/20
On a warm summer’s evening - or even a cool one, among a forest of gas heaters - there’s nothing like looking onto the harbour and Sydney’s skyline, while wending your way through the menu of this mod-Indian mainstay, now well into its 11th year. Inside, the warmly lit, split-mezzanine space is almost as seductive, with its still-chic gilded walls, leather banquettes and open kitchen. Overall, the impression is of a well-oiled machine, overseen by the charming and ubiquitous Kumar Mahadevan, who makes regular sorties from his kitchen to chat with diners. There’s a subtlety to some dishes that may surprise, but an entree of Lucknowi lamb kebab - slow-cooked, tandoor-finished and rich with cardamom and fennel - and a tangy (but surprisingly not fiery) ‘Vindaloo-style’ main of Goan beef ambotik both punch way above their flavour weight. Dessert is non-negotiable - especially rose and buttermilk panna cotta.
And … Toast the sunset with a signature cocktail.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Busy, business-like, with luxe.
Best bit Watching the sun set.
Worst bit Table lighting outside can be a little low.
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