Al Barakeh Charcoal Chicken

At this bustling eatery the charcoal cookers are on non-stop, their flames leaving black and bitter streaks on butterflied chicken skin. Inside, the flesh is well cooked and tender. The chook comes with pink pickled turnip and cucumber, bread and the most potent toum in town (made with fresh garlic, not garlic powder). The chips satisfy with a big chicken salt whack. Kofte (lamb mince) skewers are fat and juicy with heaps of sides: pickled onion, tomato and shredded lettuce. Adventurous? Chicken livers are lightly fried and drizzled with lemon juice - have them on their own or in a kebab.