Allpress Roastery Cafe

Interior, mid-morning, in the shadow of the Wellington Street high rise. The location is a light-industrial back street, not far from several of Melbourne's third-wave coffee hotspots, those warehouses and holes-in-the-wall offering light, fruity roasts of single-estate beans.

The crowd is a mix of types on various business missions. Tables are littered with MacBooks and iPads, and fingers scroll through spreadsheets, not Tweets.

Outside, in the stylishly slatey courtyard (spoiled only by the company Volkswagens parked on the rectangle of emerald lawn), a group of young mothers do brunch and caffe lattes while their toddlers have a craft morning with toast soldiers and egg yolk.

It isn't heaving, no one is Instagramming their pour-overs and there's barely an ironic beard in sight.

The setting is New Zealand-based roaster Allpress' new cafe, a cool, clean minimal space with lots of glass, pale oak, slate and monochrome tiles, wrapped around the courtyard and looking into their state-of-the-art roastery - a custom setup with the green beans in industrial hoppers rather than picturesque monogrammed sacks.

The cafe's menu is a simple one-pager: granola with poached fruit or catalana (toast with a spread of thyme-infused tomato) for breakfast; a platter of cured meats and pickles; appealing sandwiches such as the green goddess (ciabatta loaded up with a poached egg, prosciutto and a herby dill and parsley dressing), the often-sold-out crisp pork belly with apple slaw, or a tasty-looking mortadella, artichoke, mint and chilli number; and one daily lunch special, maybe burrata with a tomato salad.

This is backed by straightforward, quality coffee with plenty of mainstream appeal: the Allpress Supremo blend (Brazil, Colombia, PNG) plus a daily single origin, mostly brewed espresso-style, though you can get a pour-over. It's coffee that tastes like most people think coffee is supposed to taste. In a short black, it's lush in the mouth and toasty with a clean acid bite, while in milk it goes all roasted-nutty.

There's even a bit of a white-collar canteen feel to the menu, a quick, easy, ''get you back to the desk satisfied'' type of thing: hearty, moist slabs of corned beef in a sandwich with a nice crunchy salad of red cabbage and a spicy Russian dressing; a daily special of roast chicken perched on a pile of kohlrabi cubes that's a crunchy and clean-flavoured riff on potato salad.

The mixed breakfast plate is similarly simple, but some might say bland: a boiled egg, slices of avocado, tomato and provolone, presented au naturel with crusty bread.

It's not the kind of food that is going to have anyone scratching their heads and wondering what's in it - just simple, appealing workaday offerings and straightforward coffee in a clean space.

Trust the Kiwis to figure that out.

Do … Try the gateau basque, a citrusy almond-meal cake with lush custard filling.

Don't … Miss having a peek at the roastery - quite impressive.

Dish … Scone with berries and clotted cream.

Vibe … Smart casual Collingwood.