Altitude Restaurant at Shangri-La Hotel

Book a table for two at the Shangri-La Hotel's fine diner and you'll be asked if you're celebrating a birthday or anniversary. This is special-occasion dining with some serious wow factor. Much of that, it has to be said, is thanks to the extraordinary view from the 36th floor. Altitude's floor-to-ceiling windows pay homage to the Emerald City and if you're lucky, you may snare one of the prized window tables. Many chefs would blanch at such competition but here they have created a well-edited menu focusing on seasonal produce. The plating can be a little fussy but the combinations are clever. Perfectly poached river trout is complemented by a strategic smear of squid ink, while a capsicum puree and sweet, creamy yoghurt are terrific partners to Riverina lamb. Classic combinations star, too, such as kurobuta pork, peas and peach. Desserts are less exciting; a smarter choice is a cheese flight from Altitude's thrilling list, accompanied, of course, by that view.