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Ananas Bar & Brasserie

Ananas Bar & Brasserie
Ananas Bar & BrasserieSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

French$$$

The name is French for pineapple, which explains the handsome pineapple-shaped lighting in the seductive champagne bar and romantic, rose-filled dining room. No chance of getting the rough end of the ananas here, with former Bistro Ortolan chef Paul McGrath in residence, putting his classy spin on French favourites. You might start with a dainty deconstruct of French onion soup, the broth poured at the table - an inspired amuse bouche. A frisee salad of confit chicken, lightly smoked lardons and a runny poached egg is an autumnal treat, and a navarin of braised lamb shoulder and roasted breast comes in a blue enamel cast-iron pot, rich and deeply flavoured - and topped with a gremolata-crumbed brain. Pastry chef Yves Scherrer riffs on more ananas in a pale, pretty presentation of roasted pineapple with rum caramel, pineapple crisps, pineapple sorbet, pina colada puree and coconut mousse. If this sounds like the perfect date night, it is.

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