Apsley Arms Hotel

Beware the quietly seductive curiosities of Walcha, lest you lose track of time. There is a definite air about the town, with its totem poles holding awnings up and such fugue-inducing shops as the vast antique store. When we finally bumbled into the Apsley it was with a hunger for some normalcy. Yet the barman sent us up a twist of corridors to the dining hall where, of all things, we found a Mexican menu. And lo, the enchilada with chilli beans, guacamole and salad was not bad at all. Nor was the wine list with its solid range of local wines, all available by the glass.