Arabesque

WHERE AND WHAT

A Middle Eastern restaurant in the heart of the bagel belt makes perfect sense, geographically and culturally speaking. Arabesque now skews more consistently towards Turkey since being sold by founder Geoff Malouf, but the familiar exotica of harissa, pomegranate, sumac and soujouk pepper the menu of greatest hits.

WHERE TO SIT

Housed on Carre Street, just off the main Glen Huntly Road shopping drag, Arabesque is an exercise in turning a utilitarian modern concrete shopfront into something altogether more tactile and inviting - all without, presumably, spending a fortune. Brightly coloured bolts of cloth are draped across the ceiling; the bar is detailed with mesh screens evocative of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar; and ornamentation goes the path of flickering candles on ornate wall candelabra. Maroon-clothed tables are comfortable enough, although so closely set you might need to acquire bellydancing skills to get through them.

WHEN TO GO

Tuesday to Sunday, 6-10pm.

DRINK

Arabesque advertises itself as a bar-slash-restaurant but the wine list is nothing to get excited about. An uninspiring collection consists of five whites and six reds. If you like wine, it's much better to take advantage of the BYO policy (wine only), with corkage at $8 a bottle. Beer is an international greatest hits - Efes Pilsener flies the flag for ''Turkiye'', and for authenticity points, there are a couple of rakis.

EAT

Dips kick off a typical menu - tarama and hummus with baskets of warm Turkish bread replenished throughout the meal. Several entrees suffer from gigantism, including cricket ball-size falafel coated in a tahini dressing. Not complaining, mind you, although the falafel themselves had spent too much time in the fryer. Similarly enormous lamb cigars dotted with pine nuts are excellent, the fragrant spicing of cinnamon and sweetness of pomegranate molasses just right. A main of beef kibbe comes as three hamburger-size patties. Dessert covers the three pillars: Turkish delight, baklava and halva ice-cream.

WHO'S THERE

It's a popular place, so make sure you book ahead. Families with young children clock on for the early shift, and later it gets rowdy, with the banquet menus attracting family celebrations.

WHY BOTHER?

Big, likeable flavours at likeable prices.