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Aria

Soaring views of the Story Bridge and Kangaroo Point cliffs.
Soaring views of the Story Bridge and Kangaroo Point cliffs.Murray Fredericks Photography/Su

17/20

Contemporary$$$

If one were to design the perfect restaurant, it would probably look much like Aria. Perched on the edge of the Brisbane River with soaring views of the Story Bridge and Kangaroo Point cliffs, its neutral-schemed elegance, well-spaced tables and solicitous service make it a default dining choice for all occasions. The menu showcases chef Ben Russell’s confident grasp of flavour and technique. An entree of tuna is precision-plated: a thick puck of glistening sashimi and a neat tian of tartare separated by a pool of white miso sauce, enoki mushroom and a black sesame wafer. Salmon, moist under its crackled skin, is adorned with translucent potato crisps and an artist’s daub of sorrel puree, a spanner crab and grapefruit salad adding freshness. A generous pink lamb loin is served with a pine nut-studded caponata, lamb breast and baby yellow capsicums. Ask for the sommelier’s suggested wine match for desserts, such as the nostalgia-inspiring custard tart with fresh figs, apple and candied walnuts.

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