Aria (Sydney)

Ah, celebrity - it's a two-edged chef's knife. Thanks to Matt Moran's busy media commitments, this iconic restaurant is as full as a goog, with a far more mixed clientele than in pre-MasterChef days. Demand is such that if you're not careful you'll be parked in the side wing with poor-relation views, or get sweet but newbie service rather than the ever-alert co-owner Peter Sullivan. But the wine list is awe-inspiring, the location likewise, and the kitchen spins great produce into nicely pitched contemporary dishes. Delicate textures of scallops, eggplant and silken tofu are balanced by the crunch of tapioca crisps, and stand-out Moran family farm lamb is done proud, the roasted cutlet and rare meat on a swoosh of garlic soubise with the aniseed punch of fennel. OK, so a quail terrine was served fridge-cold, a dessert of caramelised banana and salted caramel was predictable, and the tweeting patrons on the lookout for celebs get tiresome, but such is the price of fame.