Arras

The sober smartness of what was once Becasse has been transformed into a wondrous room of soaring clouds and rainbows anchored with Brit-smart pin-striped chairs, midnight-dark carpet and smooth, tactile surfaces. The witty fit-out is reflected in a menu full of curious dish names and combinations. 'Shrooms' is a mix of mushroom textures, plus riffs on pea and a runny quail egg. 'In the weeds' has the bitter and sour notes of vinegars and leaves, from pickled veg to nasturtiums and greens. And 'Duck fat duck fat duck fat' is impeccably rested duck breast with confit potato, liver, tongues and duck skin crisps. It's a riot of colours and tiny tastes (at times, perhaps, too many). A dessert of 'Flowers in the window' celebrates rose and violet - petals, fruit leathers, berries, toffee, gel and pistachio crumbs. Or there's excellent cheese. Tables are well-spaced, service smart and the kitchen hides like a spaceship control room behind a frosted, automated sliding door.