Arras

Suspend preconceived notions about fine dining. Sure, it's all there; degustation menu, impeccable service, thoughtful wine list, formally set tables, plush carpet and pinstriped chairs. But this is a place to have fun, as in Alice in Wonderland grows up. Take the clouds (sound baffles) and bright rainbows behind wispy curtains. Or 'Duck and Cover' - confit duck cloaked in a disc of red cabbage jelly with prettily pink duck breast and a melange of hazelnuts, translucent onion scrolls, cherries and crisp leaves. Roast skate is a textural marvel, furled and centred on parsnip puree, raisins, capers and grated egg white and yolk. Roast lamb rump and 'Sunday Dinner Bread' harks back to chef Adam Humphrey's childhood, with 'gravy'-soaked bread and 'mushy peas' of pearl barley in minted green pea puree. 'Pick Me Up' is a tiramisu of grappa jelly squares, crunchy bitter-coffee scroll, chocolate crumbs, caffe latte powder and mascarpone globes. While the mind games may be ephemeral, technique and flavours remain true.