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Ash St. Cellar

Ash St. Cellar
Ash St. CellarSupplied

14/20

Mediterranean$$

It's tucked down a back lane in the middle of Sydney but could just as easily be down a back lane in the middle of Paris, Barcelona, Rome or Copenhagen, such is the savvy, pan-European appeal of this popular wine and tapas bar. Inside is a dark, moody space of wine walls, bar, a high communal table and a tiny, barely-there kitchen hung with a dramatic black chandelier. Outside, footpath tables and woven bistro chairs meander happily down the lane. Chilean-born Claudio Morales keeps a predominantly Latin feel to the small share-plates, with the likes of cute golden snapper and ham hock croquetas, and fideos (a noodly paella) with chorizo and seafood. Kingfish and oyster ceviche gets squish and crunch from avocado and popped corn, and wine-friendly ruby-pink spiced lamb rump is served with a pan of saucy, rosemary-scented chickpeas. South American shortbreads (alfajores) with dulce de leche make a nice change in the age of the macaron.

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