The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Baby Black Espresso Bar

Nina Rousseau

Baby Black.
Baby Black.Eddie Jim

Contemporary

'WE'VE got a ghost - it changes the radio station,'' says Julia Oomes, who owns the atmospheric Baby Black Espresso Bar with fiance Matt Bellman. ''We've usually got it on Triple J or PBS and it changes it to Gold or the racing channel. It happens on all the radio stations in the cafe but people don't believe you until they see it with their own eyes.''

It's fair enough. Baby Black is a welcoming local hub and it would be an excellent place to hang out in the afterlife. It totally nails ''cosy'', effortlessly putting punters at ease.

There's something innately peaceful about the building itself, here since 1866 and originally owned by Christopher Crisp, who published The Bacchus Marsh Express, printed next door.

Advertisement

Then, it's the way Oomes, 28, and Bellman, 29 - seventh-generation Bacchus Marsh locals - have kitted out the three snug rooms. Books and knick-knacks line the mantelpieces, collections of concert tickets, band posters and newspaper clippings give the main room a lived-in feel and the floor is original hardwood.

Mismatched formica tables, warm lighting and stuffed armchairs complete the homely picture and, out back, a lovely courtyard snakes down the side, allowing light in through the sash windows.

Once you've ordered and paid at the counter, you're left to your own devices - not in an ''I'll die of thirst way'' but in a cruisy, take-your-time way.

The food is cosy, too, the best bits on display in the glass cabinet: three types of frittata, home-style savouries such as zucchini slice or the lemony silverbeet and feta, and meal-sized sausage rolls bolstered with celery, grated zucchini and carrot.

Breakfast runs until noon on weekdays and 2pm at weekends, when tables are slapped with a ''reserved'' sign as soon as they're vacated.

Advertisement

The Big Breakfast is a truck-stop-style offering. Rings were used so the soft-fried eggs came as neat circles, plus there was a thick pork sausage, a stack of bacon (a little undercooked), half a tomato (grilled a bit on one edge but essentially hard and raw) and some deep-fried hash browns. It was good but lacking a little finesse.

Cakes (outsourced) are divine, such as the rich and creamy passionfruit meringue with a thick, soft, white layer, browned on top, and the strudel-like cinnamony rhubarb tart.

Bellman is responsible for the music side of the business and artists perform laid-back acoustic gigs once a month - Broderick Smith played last month, Jordie Lane before that. This month, Little John plays on September 24 from 6pm (admission $5).

It's all part of that back-street, local vibe that Baby Black does so well. Oomes and Bellman celebrated their fourth year of ownership last weekend.

May there be many more.

Advertisement


nrousseau@theage.com.au

Where 10 Church Street, Bacchus Marsh, 5367 5156

Prices Breakfasts, $4-$15; lunches, $8-$11.50; cakes and slices, $3.50-$8

Cards MC V Eftpos

Licensed

Advertisement

 Open Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm; Sat-Sun, 8am-5pm

Cuisine Cafe

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement