Backstreet Eating

House-cured, ethically sourced charcuterie is a focus here, taking the form of fat chunks of black pudding with fried eggs at brunch, or porky prosciuttini and glossy tiles of chicken liver parfait later on. Not-so-meaty bites check in too: an undressed salad of beetroot, lentils and goat’s curd may lack pizzazz, but soft-centred chickpea ‘chips’ with foamy parmesan sauce; and salty, fork-tender calamari with mayonnaise-spiked seaweed, have it in spades. While the daytime menu covers budget-friendly egg dishes and sandwiches, night-time eating may require ordering austerity.