Balla

From a back-lane family Italian restaurant in 1980s Ultimo to the bucolic charms of Manfredi at Bells, Stefano Manfredi has always kept up with the zeitgeist of local dining. Now, here he is in the city's swishest new dining precinct, in a large, curving harbourside room inspired by the swirling geometries of Italian futurist artist Giacomo Balla. What impresses most about his take on regional Italian cooking is its glorious simplicity and the peerless quality of his ingredients. A chilli-hot dollop of 'nduja (spreadable salami) is impeccably paired with superb goat's cheese. Octopus, offset by soft cubes of potato, has a good, honest chew; and a 'minute' steak with shaved grana padano is as fork-friendly as carpaccio. Sardines are underpinned by a perfect caponata, while pan-fried duck breasts need no more than sticky-sweet balsamic and wood-grilled witlof. Service is enthusiastic and attentive. Nibbling on a rolled chestnut pancake cone overflowing with ricotta, one is moved to say: 'Bello, Balla!'