Ballers Polpetteria

The alert came from a friend via text message: a photo of Ballers' newly erected signage accompanied by an all-caps "OMG!" The promise of meatballs was one thing, but our expectations were heightened tenfold by the fact this place was calling itself a polpetteria, polpette being Italian for meatball and Italian meatballs being our absolute fave.

Unsurprisingly, owner and cook Kris Schiller has a similar passion for polpette, so much so he abandoned a long-term stockbroking career to travel (yep, Italy was on the itinerary) and eventually open Ballers. A chef friend helped him refine his recipes – the menu stars four types of meatball plus a monthly "rolling special" (December's is a mozzarella-centred beef ball with creamy pesto sauce) – and the results aren't too far off "OMG!"

The spicy pork meatball is the bestseller and makes a neat snack as a slider on a toasted milk bun with cream sauce. The spice factor is mild, so if you're after a bigger kick, pair it with the tomato sweet and chilli heat of the "spicy sauce". 

There are subs, too: baguettes with your choice of balls, sauce and cheese. Our pick is beef, spicy tomato and provolone – it's like the leftovers you love just as much as the main meal at Nonna's house. The beef balls with spaghetti we get to-go didn't fare as well – a less generous serve of sauce leaving them and the pasta a tad dry.

The surprise hit is a trio of vegetarian balls – a supple mix of carrot, lentils, zucchini, onion and cauliflower – on top of polenta mash with classic tomato sauce. It's homely, full of flavour and far more than a token option for Enmore's vast vegetarian crowd.

While it's all about the balls here, there are plenty of – almost too many – ways to mix it up with sides and sauces. There's a kids' menu, too, but the littlest punters might struggle with the high stools and tables. And dessert sticks to theme with balls of locally-made Serendipity ice-cream served, if you like, as a slider with cream and Nutella.

Note, Schiller studied at Bologna's Gelato University during his travels and hopes eventually to serve house-made gelato. Also in the pipeline – a liquor licence (ETA, early January) and home delivery service (ETA, by end March). Meanwhile, eat in – preferably at the back section with its view to the kitchen so the cooks can see you mouthing "OMG!"

THE LOW-DOWN
DO ... come armed with a meatball pun to pen on the bathroom wall.
DON'T ... disregard the vegetarian balls – they're excellent.
DISH ... meatball trio with tomato sauce on polenta.
VIBE ... quick-stop diner with street cred and meat cred.