Becco

Where and what

Way back in the mists of time - or at least mid-1990s Melbourne - Becco was a trailblazer. Cannibalising the back part of Pellegrini's, it planted the flag for Melbourne's neglected, unloved laneways and sparked something of a revolution. Sixteen years later, the old girl can give thanks for the good bone structure of the gently tiered Crossley Street site, an Italian menu as hallowed as Sophia Loren and staff who make it look easy.

Where to sit

The dining room's classic accoutrements - the terrazzo floors, the linen-clad tables - give the illusion of a mid-century space jazzed up for a modern audience. The dining room embraces Crossley Street through its panoramic windows - the lane's bespoke rag traders provide free entertainment - and by night Becco glows invitingly thanks to some of the most flattering lighting in town.

Drink

Hang in the bar (it seems to be a well-kept Melbourne secret despite being dead ahead when you enter) with the signature Becco macchiato vodka, tonic and lime lightly stained with Campari or mojito with chilli and ginger. The wine list is as charmingly Aussie-Italian as Becco itself.

Eat

Eating at Becco has become almost as much of an essential Melbourne experience as Pellegrini's, and the menu is nigh-on as sacrosanct. The fried stuffed green olives are widely imitated, the chilli flour-dusted calamari with rocket and a piquant aioli a textbook standard for a dish close to Melbourne's heart. Consistency is Becco's key. The fish and chips, for example: at $42, they're probably the city's most expensive fish and chips but they're also the best, made from King George whiting in the crispest, cleanest batter, with the excellent house chips and a lightly dressed green salad. The duck in sticky grappa-spiked jus is always going to be featured as well - the duck, cooked confit then roasted, is pull-apart perfect, served simply with wilted radicchio leaves. Pasta? I reckon the gnocchi is impeccable, with a rustic oxtail ragout given a lift with zesty gremolata. Finish with a vibrant trio of bomboloni (filled doughnuts) - chocolate, white chocolate and lemon curd, and raspberry.

Who's there

Rock stars man-hugging record-label owners, businessfolk on power lunches and romancing couples.

Why bother?

Simple: it's a classic.