Becco

La dolce vita? It translates as Becco, the timeless purveyor of Italian romance. Age has not wearied this laneway pioneer - in fact, at 16 years of age the old gal can give thanks for the great bone structure of her gently tiered Crossley Street digs, the tessellated floor and smartly dressed tables. Consistency is the key to Becco's place in Melbourne's dining psyche. The menu might not have the turnover of its more ADD-afflicted competitors - the city's best fish and chips is soldered happily to the menu, as is chilli-flour dusted calamari with rocket salad and piquant aioli - but Becco knows exactly what its fan club wants. From the crusty excellence of the bread to the wonderfully light gnocchi anchored in a rustic ossobuco ragout with gremolata, produce and cooking standards are high. Rich twice-cooked duck riffing off the bitterness of wilted radicchio remains a highlight. Finish with a vibrant trio of filled doughnuts - chocolate, lemon custard and raspberry - and near-obligatory espresso.