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Bella Vedere

Good Food hat15.5/20

Contemporary$$$

Bella Vedere means 'beautiful to see', so enjoy the visually stimulating welcome, from chef Gary Cooper's old Vespa in the corridor to his open kitchen's pet fish tank, to vineyard views beyond. Fresh local produce and sustainability are obsessions, with food and wine nods to France and Italy. A la carte menus reflect both season and opportunity ('got hold of some Taraford lambs this week from Dixons Creek'); on Gary's special dinner nights, there's no choice at all. Two zucchini flowers from the garden might get things under way, filled with crab, resting in tomato and basil broth. For mains, if Bella's classic braised rabbit is on, grab it; three braised chunks with apple cider and seeded mustard, accompanied by peas, apple, pancetta and watercress. A table arrayed with puddings boasts today's baking, such as lemon meringue, tarte tatin or strawberries and custard flan. Now that's another visual stimulation. beautiful to see, even better to taste.

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