Belle Epoque

It might not be the best or most authentic French bistro in Brisbane when it boils down to the food in front of you.

But Belle Époque certainly looks the part.

True to the French era its moniker evokes, the Emporium complex restaurant is beautifully furnished in classic Parisan style – chocolate timber, leaden mirrors, red leather booths and frosted glass.

But the space is a little too large, the service a little too lacking and the fare not quite commensurate to the rather lofty prices.

However, in view of the restaurant’s imminent closure and subsequent transformation into an Italian eatery, now’s your last chance for an Emporium meal, au Français.

Happily, the restaurant was still bustling when we arrived for our 8pm Saturday night booking.

Service was prompt and friendly – our waiter’s joie di vie compensates for his unfamiliarity with the very safe, very French menu.

We begin with escargot ($16), not had since our last visit to Le Marais, paired with a glass each of wine from an extensive list that offers an excellent array of old and new world grapes.

Served in traditional fashion - on a small dish with shell-sized depressions - the entrée looked the part, but its flavours didn't measure up.

Thankfully, I was not disappointed by the 2009 Chateau Riotor Rose ($16) however my partner was initially perplexed by the 2004 Chateau Meursault Beaune ler Cru ($17) - it was more tainted than tannic.

Our suspicions were confirmed by our profusely apologetic waiter and a fresh bottle was promptly opened, this time at the table.

Mains arrived shortly after, along with more wine – NV Pere Patriache Vin de table Blanc ($9) for me in view of my pending bouillabaisse ($39) – 2008 Jean Luc Mader Pinot Gris ($13) for his canaroli risotto ($45).

The stew was generously served, brimming with as much seafood as you’d expect for the price, but the saffron didn’t impart enough of a distinctive kick.

Lack of flavour didn’t afflict the risotto though - black winter truffles and truffle pecorino a robust match for the pearlescent rice.

Dessert - a croustillant au miel de truffe ($16) - was the highlight dish of the evening.

The truffled honey and pistachio ice-cream was an elegant blend of nectar and nut, foiled with a just-tart pear and pineapple salad and beurre noisette.

If you were a fan of Belle Époque's classic French comfort, it's probably best to make a booking before it's gone.