Big Huey's Diner

Big Huey's Diner projects the jaunty, optimistic America of the late '50s and '60s, but keeps one sneaker firmly planted in Melbourne, with gleefully un-commercial and un-American touches. On the Laminex tabletop there's Heinz ketchup in a tomato-shaped squirter, but there's also Huey's Kick Arse and Ring of Fire chilli sauces, as well as a spicy New Zealand drop, Kaitaia Fire, made from organic sun-ripened chilli peppers.

''You can only do things for yourself. Then, you listen to the customer, and make adjustments,'' says New Zealand-born Iain ''Huey'' Hewitson, who opened the diner just weeks ago with winemaker and front-of-house guy Neil Prentice, and Nic Hope, who also works the floor. Glenn Waugh is the chef - formerly second in command at Barney Allen's, which Hewitson co-owns.

''It's a mishmash of things I enjoyed while travelling in the States,'' says Hewitson of the mostly American menu that's all about burgers, burritos, hotdogs and po' boys. The signature burger is suitably big: two beef patties and bacon fused with melted cheese that's balanced by tart house chutney and finely diced beetroot relish. Fillings stretch lengthways along a sesame-freckled Turkish-bread sub. ''I like the bread; it's light and fluffy, and it caramelises slightly when toasted,'' Hewitson says. It holds together well.

The ''dawgs'' and popcorn prawn po' boy with Cajun slaw are made with the same bread. While the bread is light, it's also large and generously stuffed all-round for the price.

There are two types of DIY burritos. The salmon one is a grilled, house-pounded Creole spice-rubbed fillet on a bed of slaw, which you flake on to a grill-scorched triangle of tortilla and load-up with pickled cucumber, tomato-and-chipotle salsa and chunks of avocado. The other burrito is Korean-style, with brisket and house-made kimchi.

All meals are served on polka-dot plates, part of the overall jollity of the place, which Hewitson designed. The counter runs down one side of the wide space, with windows that open up to South Melbourne Market opposite.

At the moment it's counter service - order and pay at the bar - but that may change in coming weeks, along with an expansion in the opening hours.

There's '50s and '60s rock'n'roll playing, a jukebox, neon signage, booth seats and a wall of fame with photos reminiscent of the era, including a musical Huey. ''I played guitar and … washed dishes. When the band broke up, I realised I wasn't any good and stayed in restaurants.''

The place is already popular with families. The kids' menu is a beaut, with plenty of options: grilled chicken, frankfurter, burger - all with chips, slaw and Jock's Ice Cream, all $10. And while the youngsters sip lemonade floats, the adults can sip a peach vodka and cranberry slushie, or banana flambe and Jamaican rum milkshake. Happy days.

Do … Check out the beer list.

Don't … Order the banana-bread, melted marshmallow and peanut-butter-and-jelly ice-cream sandwich if you have a heart condition.

Dish … Grilled salmon burrito

Vibe … Retro rock'n'roll

■ segger@fairfaxmedia.com.au