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14/20

Contemporary$$

While the ricotta hotcakes might warrant their own entry on the Australia Day honours list, there's more to this Sydney stalwart than long sunlit brunches, sweetcorn fritters and those hotcakes with banana and honeycomb butter. With clean white walls, Nordic design elements and a multitude of fruit and veg bowls roosting near the kitchen, one can't help but feel healthier just by sitting down. The wellbeing transfers to the plate, too; edamame hummus with quinoa falafel, grilled flatbreads and a teepee of radicchio is just as cosily gratifying as it is nutritious, and nigella seed-freckled zucchini fries are zesty little gems of addictiveness (albeit more fairy-sized frisbees than fries). All notions of healthy eating take a back seat, however, for parmesan-crumbed chicken schnitzel and creamed potato that is all buttery, crunchy and juicy. Blueberry, ricotta and gingernut cheesecake undergoes an identity crisis as an Eton mess but it's a small misfire on an otherwise unfussy menu of cafe classics.

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