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Billy Kwong

Billy Kwong
Billy KwongSupplied

Good Food hat15.5/20

It's easy to remain Zen about the uncomfortable seating in this bums-on-stools shoebox. After all, chef Kylie Kwong builds up great stocks of goodwill with her ethical approach to eating, love of her culinary heritage and healthy obsession with native Australian ingredients (plus the occasional edible insect). Roll up the sleeves for DIY san choi bao to wrap and roll ginger-scented pork mince and mushrooms. Also worth sampling are buttery egg noodles with chicken, warrigal greens, peppery nasturtiums, yarrow and chilli; a big-tasting but simple dish. Dishes such as red-braised wallaby or native yolla bird with chilli cricket sauce are an intriguing yet exciting surprise. And bouncy silken tofu with shaved konbu is a sensual celebration, collapsing into a sauce of chilli, shiro shoyu and sesame oil. Leave Billy Kwong feeling nourished and nurtured.

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