Billy Kwong

If the meal worm and cricket fried rice doesn’t drive the point home, the social enterprise slogans on Billy Kwong’s window will. Kylie Kwong is a trailblazer, which is why her compact restaurant continues to pack them in 15 years after first wowing Surry Hills. This is the brave new world of Aussie-Chinese cooking, where ingredients are occasionally adventurous (although always organic and sustainable) but the flavours are sound: rich beef brisket wrapped in fried rice noodles and doused with black bean vinaigrette, or a Sichuan take on sang choy bao, big on the ginger. Billy Kwong is a tour de force, with staff who expertly read the play, neutralising concerns about tightly packed tables and sending another wave of diners tumbling happily into the night.

And … A move to Potts Point is planned for late 2014.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Bustling Asian caff.
Best bit Professional yet laid-back staff.
Worst bit Uncomfortable seating.