Bistro Guillaume

Mirrors and marble, crisp white napkins, onion soup and escargots, a rosy heap of steak tartare to pile on latticed potato crisps - French traditions are alive and tasting good at this airy riverfront bistro. Yet there's a subtle French evolution under way. You'll see it in the 'salads' section of the menu, where perfect poached prawn tails mingle with young cos leaves, chives, cucumber and tomato, anchored to a slate tile with smooth avocado cream. For mains, pork belly with wafer-thin apple rounds and lightly pickled cabbage offers traditional flavours of northern France with fresher textures. Filletted barramundi might come with pea puree and tarragon butter, crowned with a tangle of shredded, deep-fried potato. Chic desserts combine current trends with textbook technique. Salted caramel appears in a chocolate tart, while 'raspberry and rose macaron' sandwiches two pink discs with sorbet, fresh berries and cream. It might not be revolutionary but it's beautifully judged, and delivered by knowledgable staff with care and flair.