Bistro Meme

It feels almost as if you've landed halfway through A Year In Provence at this new offering from David Poirier of Rozelle's La Grande Bouffe. A large outdoor terrace, wooden tables, market umbrellas, tinkling fountain and a liberal sprinkling of French accents will do that every time. Meme is an affectionate term for grandma, and Poirier has named the place in tribute to his own grandmother's cooking. The menu, therefore, is French comfort food, running from a goodly slab of duck and pork terrine punched up with a feisty little cornichon and cress salad to a classic Marseille bouillabaisse and a beautifully seasoned steak tartare with a bowl of decent frites to the side. Naturally there are good French cheeses on offer, and crepes (with mascarpone cream and blueberry compote), but if you want to keep the Provencal theme going, try the lavender-infused creme brulee, flamboyantly flambeed before serving. It's all just so Frenchy, so chic.