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Bistro Moncur

Bistro Moncur
Bistro MoncurSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

French$$$

There is something terribly reassuring about dining at Moncur. From the visual whack of Michael Fitzjames's mural to favourite dishes that if removed would cause a revolt, nothing much has changed at this stalwart since it opened in 1993. But where that might be cause for concern elsewhere, it's that consistency that makes this place so appealing. From the attentive, friendly waitstaff to the smartly sexy wine list, the focus is on quality. A salad of purple figs with saltbush goat's cheese, almond cream and brioche is elegant and pretty, while the rustic notes of pork rillettes will transport you straight to the French countryside. Long-time regulars find it hard to bypass the fabulous cafe de Paris sirloin, but Cone Bay barramundi fillet with scallop ceviche and sea urchin butter is worth the detour. Desserts, such as textures of white peach with pineapple ice-cream, are equally special. This is one experience we wouldn't change at all.

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