Bistro Tartine

Since owner/chef Anthony Morrison took over this much-loved French institution, the place feels Frenchier than ever. The rejuvenated dining room looks onto a suburban streetscape, but now features handsome framed Marc Chagall prints, a subdued pastel colour scheme and froufrou chandeliers that could have illuminated a Parisian salon in the '50s. For a clue as to what to order, note the sweet little duck illustration at the top of the menu. Signature dishes are a classic duck and cognac pate with onion jam and spiced cherries, and crisped golden duck leg confit on a bed of red cabbage and cauliflower puree topped with candied orange. A charcuterie board features the house terrine; fat, seared scallops come with an electric yellow saffron and garlic puree and there's even a traditional chateaubriand for two. So, no big surprises. but traditional French comfort food doesn't need big surprises. Nor does a classic tarte tatin with a calvados creme anglaise.