Bistro Vue

Shannon Bennett's take on turn-of-the-century Paris ensures that Bistro Vue retains a flamboyant, romantic feel. It's got some growing room in its new space, thanks to the relocation of Bennett's flagship Vue de Monde, and at first it feels, well, big. But settle into a rich velvet banquette, and give over to the mood and exemplary service. Start with smoked trout on toasted brioche, enlivened by an artistic palette of capers, lime, shallots and onions. Or maybe classically prepared steak tartare, invigorated by truffle oil and cornichons. For mains, the plat du jour might be bouillabaisse; or David Blackmore's irresistible wagyu, accompanied by fat, golden Pont Neuf potatoes, watercress and an array of classic sauces. The highlight's dessert, especially the tarte tatin, its pan theatrically flipped at the table, exposing runny flavours of vanilla bean, cinnamon, creme anglaise and caramelised apple. Perfection. Like Paris itself, Bistro Vue has ups and downs, but the sum of the parts remains satisfying.