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Bistro Vue

Bistro Vue.
Bistro Vue.Eddie Jim EJZ

Good Food hat15/20

French$$$

Through his nostalgic take on a Parisian bistro, Shannon Bennett brings La Belle Epoque to the Collins quartier with warmth, whimsy and a world view of gracious hospitality that's rarely without theatre. Scarlet velvet banquettes, vintage parquetry tables, bone-handled cutlery and floral plates add retro to replica, and a little romance. In the kitchen, chef Chris Bonello keeps faith with the classics, crafting meticulously sourced ingredients with finesse. Will it be Moonlight Flat oysters, Sterling caviar or garlic snails? Foie gras, duck sausage and Madeira jelly baked in brioche is sublime. For mains, slow-cooked wagyu bolar blade scattered in truffle-flecked gnocchi, and berkshire pork with braised lentils and calvados-poached apples are pure baguette mop-up material. To finish, it's a dead heat between toffeed tarte tatin, flipped at the table and doused in creme anglaise, and Valrhona chocolate souffle, pierced to catch a pour of rich liquid chocolate. Faux Frenchy, tres chic.

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