Bistrode CBD

Jeremy Strode is the brains behind the gutsy, offal-laden menu at the first-floor bistro of Merivale's ever-busy Hotel CBD. A pig's head terrine has real depth of flavour and comes surrounded by a bitter leaf salad with ribbons of deep-fried pig's ear for crunch. Meanwhile, ox cheek braised in red wine and served with pumpkin mash is a rich, autumnal plate and a perfect match for the recommended Bloodwood syrah. From the regular menu, a starter of quail, green lentils and bacon is a real hands-on dish (hence the finger bowl), while a main of line-caught pink snapper, white bean and salted fish mash with warrigal greens is beautifully put together - the crisp fish sitting on a sweet puree of greens that counters the salty quenelle of modernised brandade. For dessert, Jane's honey tart with peanut butter ice-cream is a nostalgic delight, invoking favourite childhood sandwiches.