15/20
British$$$
Is Jeremy Strode Australia’s Fergus Henderson? The English expat shares his countryman’s love of nose-to-tail dining, so generously scattered through a lengthy menu. There’s an elegant, feminine side amid more muscular, beefy options and classic bistro moments such as cumin-scented Hervey Bay scallops topped with cauliflower puree, crunchy breadcrumbs and burnt butter; or a refreshing and colourful mix of prawns with shaved fennel, pickled beetroot, rocket, parsley, capers and orange; and a trio of excellent salads. For mains, wedges of skin-on roast pumpkin frame a satisfying lentil curry; and duck gizzards are hidden amid a Landaise-style salad with confit leg, tea-smoked breast, bacon and plums. Strode’s wife Jane has created a Sydney dessert classic in her honey tart with peanut butter ice cream. The lunch crowd vibe is wannabe Wolf of Wall Street in a spaciously airy and crisp dining room where the service is snappily down-to-business.
And ... A corned wagyu and horseradish sandwich is an excellent lunch-only option.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Working lunch.
Best bit Strode’s talent with the fifth quarter.
Worst bit Annual closures.
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