Bistrot d'Orsay

The idea behind Bistrot d'Orsay is simple enough. create a classic French bistro in the heart of Melbourne, lure theatre-goers and tourists with alfresco seating, dark-timber panelling and framed posters, then deliver French-Mediterranean fare to a high standard. Expatriate staff, an elaborate ceiling fresco, close-packed tables and a basket of baguettes above the bar reinforce the Gallic illusion, and perhaps increase the savour of dishes such as fat scallops in the half-shell with fried chorizo, toasted almond crumbs and a chunky pea puree; a wedge of crisp-skinned salmon, still juicy, slicked with salsa verde and resting on nicoise salad (black olives, beans, tomatoes and potato); or beetroot risotto, creamy on the tongue and vivid magenta on the eye. The menu strays into trattoria territory with dishes such as linguine with tomatoes, shellfish and chunks of fish, but returns safely to its Gallic heartland with desserts such as leatherwood honey parfait and toffee-topped creme brulee.