Black Star Pastry

113 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery, NSW

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  • 02 9700 7686
  • $
Industrial effort:  The coffee is good and strong and the blackboard menu tempts from afar. It features sweet treats (below) including gluten-free delights.
Industrial effort: The coffee is good and strong and the blackboard menu tempts from afar. Photo: Sasha Woolley

Jill Dupleix

The queue - good thing or bad? Please discuss. The good thing is that while queuing, you get time to study what's on offer, read the blackboard menu and work out what to order by the time you get to the cash register. The bad thing is, in that time they may sell out of the very thing you are queuing for.

The opening of Newtown's Black Star Pastry in Rosebery has given cause for more research into the subject. Pastry chef Christopher The brings a big fan base to what is fast becoming a food hub in the inner south. (At Kitchen by Mike next door, there are even longer queues - 24 wait in line by 1.30pm on this day, as opposed to 17 at Black Star.)

Worth queuing for are the hefty sausage rolls ($5.20), Young Henrys beer and brisket pies ($8), and a close-to-perfect quiche lorraine that's like creamy scrambled egg mousse flecked with smoky bacon, caught and held against its will in rich, buttery pastry ($6.50). There are two salads of the day, such as roast pumpkin, feta, spinach and green beans, or a crunchy red cabbage and celery slaw studded with shredded pork - at $5 a side or $7.50 a plate.

Plethora of choice: Black Star Bakery appeases all sweet desires.
A selection of sweet treats including gluten-free delights. Photo: Sasha Woolley

A new wood-fired oven supplies a small range of dense, darkly crusted sourdough loaves with a satisfying chew, put to good use in fat sandwiches of roasted chicken with avocado and rocket.

Queuing time (which can be avoided by going off-peak) can be spent admiring the industrial corner site and the broad expanse of windows both out to the street and into the pastry kitchen. Note also the gorgeous copper-framed stools and powder-coated black La Marzocco Linea machine.

Coffee is a stronger part of the whole here than in Newtown, with barista Daniel Jackson making sure that Little Marionette's Crowd-Pleaser blend lives up to its name with its almonds-and-cream sweetness and balance. There are loose-leaf teas and Joostice juices if you're all coffeed out.

Cult following: Strawberry and watermelon cake.
Cult following: Strawberry and watermelon cake. Photo: Steven Siewert

Prices overall seem modest given the quality and the dedicated following. Tweeters and 'Grammers have already iconised the strawberry and watermelon cake, but better by far is the sublime chocolate eclair, a sleek jet-age missile of crusty choux and dreamy chocolate creme patissiere, and a deceptively simple custard flan that is guaranteed to sell out when you're just three people away from ordering. Damn those queues to hell.

Do … join the far queue.

Don't … expect to park nearby.

Dish … House-made salad, $5.

Vibe … Pastry geek chic.

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113 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery, NSW

  • Prices - Breakfast $4-$6.50, Lunch $5-$12, Coffee $3.50
  • Features - Cheap and cheerful, Family friendly
  • Chef(s) - Christopher The
  • Owners - Christopher The
  • Opening Hours - Daily 8am-3pm
  • Other Branches - Black Star Pastry, 277 Australia Street, Newtown
  • Author - Jill Dupleix
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5 comments so far

  • Pastry and bread is great here. But sorry to say the coffee is ordinary, and the coffee at Kitchen by Mike is continually awful. Do the reviewers actually drink the coffee?

    Commenter
    sow with lipstick
    Date and time
    February 19, 2014, 12:41AM
  • "Do … join the far queue"

    Any pun intended here?

    Commenter
    Strawberry and watermelon cake is the best
    Location
    Date and time
    February 19, 2014, 10:08AM
  • I don't think I could queue for a great sausage roll(almost an oxymoron, but relatively to an ordinary sausage roll I guess yes you can have a great sausage roll!). Too easy to make a good one at home in little time.

    How good is the sourdough at this place? A lot better than Sonoma or Luxe Bakery?

    Commenter
    Barney
    Location
    Sydney
    Date and time
    February 19, 2014, 10:33AM
    • Barney - spot on. The bread here is far better than Sonoma, Luxe and Burke St Bakery.

      Commenter
      sow with lipstick
      Location
      Date and time
      February 19, 2014, 10:58AM
  • Love this shop - the only problem is parking - If you think parking in Newtown is bad try this shop during the week day. As for food everything you come to expect at Blackstar.

    Commenter
    Mais51
    Location
    Sydney
    Date and time
    February 19, 2014, 2:03PM

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