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Blancmange

Blancmange Article Lead - narrow
Blancmange Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13/20

European

Both the dining space and the food in this quirky corner building opposite a peaceful park offer old-world charm with a touch of whimsy and a nod to the modern. In the room, this means high ceilings, antique wood, colourful art and charming, sedate service. On the plate, it means timeless French and British techniques with a leaning towards the indulgent. A charcuterie platter is richly endowed with the likes of rabbit rillettes and cured veal and chicken liver parfait, while a fig and goat's curd salad with witlof and honey provides welcome light relief. Mains are equally heavy-hitting, hearty serves, including semolina gnocchi alla romana with wild pine mushrooms, and a tasting plate of expertly cooked pork that plays on the fairy tale of the Three Little Pigs. Desserts such as ricotta fritters with poached blood plums may tempt, but leaf tea sipped from vintage china with tiny melting moment biscuits seems the most fitting and sensible way to exit.

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