Blaq Piq

Mention the words Alberta Street and you'll likely get a visceral reaction from matcha​ fiends. While Bourke Street has its famed namesake bakery, Alberta is a hidden laneway in the CBD that's home to Cafe Cre Asion​, a tiny Japanese eatery that boasts one of the most Instagrammed green tea lattes in Sydney.    

I am not lining up here for my fix today. Instead, my brunch partner and I sit down at Blaq Piq, a newcomer to the quiet block. Only a few doors down from the source of the cult green brew, it is rumoured to rival Cre Asion's matcha game. 

Opened in mid-October, the bright indoor-outdoor cafe has a Scandi-Japanese-style interior decked out in simple blond wood furniture and photogenic light fixtures. It may have the DNA of a trendy spot, but a cool kids' club it ain't. Everywhere you look, there are signs that it doesn't take itself too seriously. The cafe's logo, for instance, is an outline of a pig's bottom, complete with a corkscrew tail. The menus, printed in a Comic Sans-like font, feature some bold, Asian twists to brunch-time favourites. 

The trio behind Blaq Piq may be playful but they are also old hands on the breakfast scene. This is the third collaboration between former flatmates and co-owners Lemindau Hanapie, Aquette Susilo and Budi Tjokro. Their last cafe was Surry Hills brunch stalwart Le Monde, which they sold four months ago to focus on their new project. 

True to its name, Blaq Piq (constructed from letters in the owners' names) is a pork lover's happy place. Bacon isn't the only porcine offering here. Even at breakfast, you can tuck into slices of twice-cooked pork belly, black pudding, chorizo or ham.  Most dishes are served with 63-degree eggs, a Japanese slow-cook method that produces perfectly oozy yolks and eliminates the risk of ruining eggs with too much vinegar in the poaching water. 

The cafe's fusion influence extends to its drinks menu, which spans from Masala chai to Oreo shakes to root beer floats. I happily settle for the matcha latte while my partner goes for a nutty Five Senses cappuccino. The velvety green brew comes in an oversized yellow cup – the kind you scoop up with both hands – and a tiny jar of sugar syrup so punters can sweeten it to suit their own palate.  Like a good espresso, authentic matcha powder is known for a slightly bitter kick. Blaq Piq's version hits the mark and has a lovely elastic crema. 

Our breakfasts arrive quickly and I'm impressed by the luxurious-looking corned beef Benedict. Slices of Vic's Meats salted beef are soaked and roasted with carrots and aromatics overnight, then browned with a quick sear just before serving. The chef swaps the traditional English muffins base for Chinese lotus buns. It's messy but it works. The only thing missing is a hint of acid, easily fixed by snatching some crunchy, pickled vegetables off an unsuspecting brunch partner's plate.     

The twice-cooked pork belly with pumpkin puree is another winner. Slices of gelatinous meat go nicely with the sweetness of the pumpkin and a runny 63-degree egg. A slice of sourdough to mop up the plate would have hit the spot.

But the surprise hit of the day is a bright green house special of a different kind – pandan buttermilk pancakes. Served with a scoop of coconut ice-cream and a generous medley of fresh mango slices and berries, the pancakes are fragrant and fluffy. Cubes of chewy nata de coco (coconut jelly) add some fun, and salted coconut syrup elevates the dish with a lovely savoury kick.   

Running an eatery at a spot with almost no foot traffic is no mean feat. But together with its matcha-specialist neighbour, Blaq Piq may just turn this secluded city corner into a destination strip.

THE PICKS

Pandan buttermilk pancakes, wagyu corned beef Benedict, matcha latte. Ask for the special of the day.

THE LOOK

Bright, Nordic-Japanese inspired interior tucked away in a CBD alleyway.

THE SERVICE

Efficient and warm.